Not yet ready to concede defeat, we'd heard of a place where it might be possible to capture the so-far-elusive meerkats up close and on camera. At Gweta Lodge, Helen, Terry and their delightful team made us feel more than welcome. Even Chase the dog treated us as family. Our one day there became two and then three...though we did tear ourselves away come day four. In the meantime we were fed, watered and given a bed like royalty. Much time was spent at the bar and by the pool, swapping stories, gleaning wisdom and practicing our Tswana. We heard stories of first dates that ended in fire bombs and learned that this family has a life motto to live by: "Always give a little more than you take". It's an ethos that they clearly take seriously, and we have much to thank them for.
Apart from the hospitality, kindness and life-coaching, one of those thanks is for helping us finally tick another item off the bucket list!!
Climbing into a tan safari car one afternoon, we bumped our way back towards the pans with Mox, our informative guide for the day. He stopped by a tiny village so we could pick up Obi, a young man with a brilliant life story. Obi lives a quiet existence on the edge of the pans, in a mud hut with his mum. Every day for almost 5 years he has walked for miles out to the plains, freeing his goats and then going to sit with the meerkats.
Guygirlandgoat have had such a hard time finding them until now because they're not usually fond of people. One of the 'shy five', meerkats will duck for cover at the mere suspect of potential threat - rarely giving humans the chance to sight them. At first, Obi couldn't get within 50 metres of the little guys. Over the years, with much time, love and patience (and witnessing the arrival of 4 little generations) the meerkat family have become used to Obi. Their relationship has grown to the point where these diminutive little mongooses now tolerate strangers like us as well. Sitting out on the plains watching them forage, groom and sentry, it's clear that they know Obi well. A watchful eye and wary distance was kept from us, but the babies played with abandonment at Obi's feet. Every second was well spent in their presence, until the disappearing sun sent them all to bed and us back to the lodge.
This marked the end of our Botswana adventures; another farewell that is hard to beat! In Francistown it was down to business, preparing our papers for the trip into Zimbabwe. The fourth country on our overland journey, Zimbabwe has a reputation for border crossings that are not quite stress free. After a day dedicated to research and a day of preparation, lists were written, reflectors were mounted and safety equipment purchased (think fire extinguishers, reflective tape, triangles and vests). It's also not good having a dirty car. After the powder-fine dust in the pans, absolutely everything had a thick grey coating. So absolutely everything was removed, washed and repacked in Francistown. A minor issue with dust in the door jam repaired, we set off a day or two later than planned. Headed to Plumtree with girl in her best border crossing dress (yellow and apparently 'very proper' in these parts) and guy sporting his usual unflappable demeanor.
From what we could gather, there were 6 steps, 3 bills and 5 stamps to collect in order to gain entry for our requisite 30 days. With study notes in hand, we departed Botswana in under 11 minutes and fronted up to the Zimbabwe border. All the preparation was in vain. It wasn't hectic, officials were helpful and while there were a couple of back-tracks and stamps to return for, it was generally hassle free. We were through in under 1 1/2 hours and cruising to Bulawayo. At the 4 road blocks we passed through on our first 60 k's of Zimbabwe's roads, we were treated with the utmost respect and waved through - usually with some advice on things to see or commentary on the cricket! We arrived in Bulawayo already fond of the people and the place.
Trying to find a backpackers, we found a council caravan park instead. With grounds on par with Sydney's Centennial Park, it was the first time in months we'd had grass under the tent! Huge oaks, jacarandas and other greenery around, we could've been camping anywhere except in a major CBD. Sunday brought our first real taste of Winter, with wind, clouds and temperatures that didn't get above 14 degrees (real feel 10°). It came from nowhere and caught us unawares! There was no huddling under blankets with a coffee like guy wanted; we were rugged up and headed to see the Khami Ruins.
Down a crumbling road following tattered signs, we weren't sure what to expect. Luckily Khami is in much better condition than its surroundings, despite its 400+ years. Decorative stone platforms, staircases and pavilions are all that remains of the old Shona kingdom here. Perched high on a granite outcrop with panoramic views of boulders, valleys and a river below, it's easy to see why ancient kings chose this spot. Now it's inhabited by klipspringers and baboons; the latter rushing us in an attempt to thieve lunch. We've already learned a lesson or two from primates though! The mere sight of one heading our way had girl shrieking and hurling EVERYTHING unceremoniously back into the car! Its much easier and more entertaining to pull faces at baboons from behind the glass! Park security were still chuckling as we drove out the gate.
Up next: Great Zimbabwe