Hiking trails, ice-cold streams and the old-world glamour of Nyanga (in the form of Mr Rhodes' summer house, where we lounged on the lawns taking tea with scones and playing giant chess like real toffs), were left behind for the big smoke. We picked up the Canadian backpacker again and hit the road to Harare.
The capital was bustling and unkempt in the same way that much of Zimbabwe seems to be. The art galleries and flea markets were nice, but not enough to keep us there, so we continued north. Not long after we set up in the campsite at Chinhoyi caves, a friendly local pulled up and asked if we wanted to see a snake. In some places that might sound dodgy, but we jumped at the chance to jump in his car and go see it. We bumped an entire 43 metres when he pointed to a tree and said "It's there". At the next campsite over a giant rock python was curled in the grass. Our new friend explained, as we got out of the car almost where we got in it, that pythons are a problem as they eat the chickens in the village. The bulge in it's belly meant this one could well have been guilty!
At night we chatted easily to our security guard Christopher. We learned that the road we were on was so busy because people use it to dodge the nearby toll road. Apart from 54 police road blocks, we've also encountered numerous road tolls. Dodging them seems logical when the fees cost the same as two cafè lunches for locals. We thought we'd try too, but opted to use the booth for breaking big notes instead. Most things come at the universal price of $1 here. lt's not good form having the wrong money to buy something, so paying a $2 toll with a $100 note is an excellent way to ensure that we always have LOTS of dollar bills!!!
After a few more road blocks and some sketchy moments with trucks, we turned left off the tar and made for Binga. A track with everything you'd imagine in a stereotypical version of Africa. Dusty and potholed, featuring endless vistas, boabab trees, sparse landscapes, countless chickens, donkeys and cows, interspersed with women carrying water on their heads and men directing ox wagons. Add myriad thatched rondavels and some tiny villages to get quite a picture. As a huge sun disappeared, the road became narrower and we were not yet halfway. Some kids herding goats in the dusk came alongside so we stopped and said hello. The oldest spoke English and we asked him from whom we should seek permission to park Landy for the night. The goats scattered as he ran across the way to fetch his father.
A group of women and children gathered before Judas appeared from behind a hut and introduced himself as the headman. We explained our situation and he granted us permission to make ourselves at home. The arrival of two mzungas created quite a stir! Men, women and children came to greet us in a large crowd of hi-fiving and hand shaking, big smiles and friendly waves. Shortly after the hand shakes and greetings finished, they all stood staring at us with big eyes, not knowing what to say or how to say it! By this time it was completely dark, so we explained to Exander (the oldest boy) that we needed to set up. He translated to the others, and we soon had an attentive audience, watching in awe as we got to it. It almost got uncomfortable when a quick word from Judas sent everyone scattering. His word is powerful; after that not even a child ventured near us again! They all got busy with jobs. The goats, sheep and cattle were again herded into corrals and the cooking resumed by the huts, whilst we set up the tent and got organised.
At 6.15 the next morning dawn was only just creeping through the trees when we surfaced to find the place already bustling. Goats and sheep were being led out. Oxen were already hitched to a wagon and trundling off down the road. Boys in the corral were milking cows and girls were busy washing clothes and shoes. Judas appeared and asked if we could take a picture of him before we left. This set off a chain reaction as various combinations of wives (3), children (17) and grandchildren (7) posed for pictures - sometimes with us too. The images brought much joy as people inspected them and laughed with one another. There were many more hi fives and handshakes before Judas offered to take us on a tour of his domain. We were honoured, and set off barefoot through the sand with a stream of kids in tow. The Tonga people are the smallest minority here and continue to do it even tougher than most other Zimbabwean's. Judas' family were evicted from the fertile Zambezi River flats in 1957, when it was dammed and subsequently flooded to make Lake Kariba. We didn't completely understand this until later, when someone explained the history to us. Although they were forced to try and eek a new living from the dry, infertile stony country, Judas is lucky in that his land is close to a spring. Others from his area walk more than 7km to obtain water. Because of this, UNICEF have funded a solar powered pump, concrete tank and pipeline that will soon run down the valley towards villages without access to the H2o. There is immense pride in this 'water project'. The spirit and generosity here is astounding. After our impromptu tour through the village, gardens and farmland, we climbed a hill to see said water project. Of the 9 men working, just one is being paid ($100 a month). The others we spoke to hauling sand, digging, laying bricks or smashing rocks by hand have done so for the past 6 months because "it's for the community". Everyone will benefit, so everyone helps out. Putting the group before yourself is a way of life here. Before we left we handed over a bag of rice and a few dollars in appreciation of the hospitality, kindness and wisdom this family had unwittingly shared. "Zimbabwe is buggered" said Judas as he thanked us. "No one has money". The words made us laugh. English is his 3rd language but we couldn't have said it better ourselves. Judas explained that what he got from us is enough to buy seeds and plant a year's worth of cabbage and onions. We moved on feeling inspired. We also felt very very small.
It was a rocky, sandy slog to the top of the escarpment at Chizawira. It felt good to be engaging 4wd again and grass stretched past the roof all around us. It's safe to say the tracks are not well used. We perched the Landy at the campsite, on the very edge of a sheer drop with astounding views across the countryside. So high the eagles were soaring below as another sun ducked below the horizon. In the distance the waters of Lake Kariba glistened.
Masumo Lodge near Binga was another isolated paradise. The Lake we'd seen in the distance the previous evening was lapping at the edges of this spot. Making use of it's rocky surroundings, buildings blended seamlessly into the environment - with the exception of the infinity pool. We settled in at the cliffside bar to watch another sun set. Soon after, dozens of kapenta boats began their nightly ritual, lumbering past us into the lake for the tiny fish they lure with light. We fell asleep to the sounds of their chugging rhythm.
Guys birthday was spent in the same peaceful extravagance. A formal breakfast served in the dining room with 360° lake views and a beer. Too windy for fishing, lounging by the tv, the bar and the pool were in order instead, before the fish were brought to us. Served up with chips and salad and washed down with more beers. The car stayed parked and the feet stayed up. By then there were just a few days left in Zimbabwe and we'd not yet seen it's biggest sight.
Victoria Falls. The sheer volume of water was almost as astounding as the number of people there to see it. All notions of Zimbabwe being empty were dropped when we arrived. Buses, trains, overland trucks and tourists congregated in droves! We spent a day along the clifftops, taking in the sights and the enormous roar. If the wind blew the right way, vision was obscured entirely. Nothing to see but white fog as the spray from the falls rained down to drench us. It's easy to see why it's so popular. By the time we settled in at the gorgeous Vic Falls Hotel for cocktails the day was just about done, the visa just about expired and the trip into Zambia just a sleep away.
Up next: Zambia